The City of Bristol's Garden Vineyards: Foot-Stomping Grapes in Urban Spaces

Every 20 minutes or so, an older diesel-powered railway carriage arrives at a graffiti-covered station. Nearby, a police siren cuts through the near-constant traffic drone. Commuters hurry past falling apart, ivy-draped garden fences as rain clouds gather.

It is maybe the last place you anticipate to find a well-established vineyard. But James Bayliss-Smith has managed to 40 mature vines sagging with round purplish grapes on a rambling allotment sandwiched between a row of 1930s houses and a local rail line just above the city town centre.

"I've seen individuals concealing illegal substances or other items in those bushes," states Bayliss-Smith. "But you simply continue ... and continue caring for your vines."

The cameraman, 46, a filmmaker who runs a fermented beverage company, is not the only urban winemaker. He has organized a loose collective of growers who produce wine from several hidden urban vineyards nestled in private yards and community plots across the city. The project is too clandestine to possess an formal title yet, but the collective's WhatsApp group is named Vineyard Dreams.

City Wine Gardens Across the Globe

So far, the grower's allotment is the only one listed in the City Vineyard Network's upcoming global directory, which includes better-known urban wineries such as the eighteen hundred vines on the hillsides of Paris's historic artistic district neighbourhood and more than three thousand vines overlooking and within the Italian city. The Italian-based charitable organization is at the forefront of a initiative re-establishing urban grape cultivation in traditional winemaking countries, but has discovered them all over the globe, including urban centers in Japan, South Asia and Uzbekistan.

"Grape gardens help urban areas stay greener and more diverse. They protect land from development by establishing permanent, productive farming plots inside cities," explains the organization's leader.

Like all wines, those produced in cities are a product of the earth the vines grow in, the vagaries of the climate and the individuals who tend the fruit. "Each vintage represents the beauty, local spirit, landscape and history of a urban center," notes the president.

Unknown Polish Variety

Returning to the city, Bayliss-Smith is in a urgent timeline to gather the grapevines he grew from a plant abandoned in his allotment by a Polish family. Should the rain arrives, then the birds may seize their chance to attack again. "Here we have the enigmatic Polish variety," he comments, as he removes damaged and mouldy grapes from the glistering bunches. "The variety remains uncertain their exact classification, but they're definitely hardy. Unlike noble varieties – Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and other famous European varieties – you need not treat them with chemicals ... this could be a unique cultivar that was bred by the Soviets."

Group Efforts Throughout the City

Additional participants of the group are also making the most of bright periods between bursts of autumn rain. On the terrace with views of the city's glistening harbour, where medieval merchant vessels once floated with casks of wine from France and Spain, Katy Grant is collecting her rondo grapes from about fifty vines. "I adore the aroma of the grapevines. The scent is so evocative," she says, pausing with a basket of grapes slung over her arm. "It's the scent of Provence when you roll down the vehicle windows on holiday."

The humanitarian worker, fifty-two, who has devoted more than 20 years working for charitable groups in conflict zones, unexpectedly took over the vineyard when she returned to the United Kingdom from East Africa with her household in 2018. She felt an strong responsibility to look after the vines in the garden of their new home. "This vineyard has already survived multiple proprietors," she explains. "I really like the idea of natural stewardship – of passing this on to future caretakers so they continue producing from this land."

Terraced Vineyards and Traditional Winemaking

A short walk away, the remaining cultivators of the collective are hard at work on the steep inclines of Avon Gorge. Jo Scofield has established more than 150 plants perched on terraces in her wild half-acre garden, which tumbles down towards the silty River Avon. "Visitors frequently express amazement," she says, gesturing towards the interwoven vineyard. "It's astonishing to them they are viewing grapevine lines in a urban neighborhood."

Today, the filmmaker, sixty, is harvesting bunches of deep violet dark berries from lines of plants arranged along the cliff-side with the assistance of her child, Luca. Scofield, a wildlife and conservation film-maker who has worked on streaming service's nature programming and BBC Two's gardening shows, was motivated to cultivate vines after seeing her neighbor's grapevines. She's discovered that amateurs can make interesting, pleasurable natural wine, which can sell for upwards of £7 a serving in the increasing quantity of wine bars specialising in low-processing vintages. "It's just deeply rewarding that you can actually make good, natural wine," she states. "It's very fashionable, but really it's resurrecting an traditional method of making wine."

"When I tread the grapes, the various natural microorganisms are released from the skins and enter the liquid," explains Scofield, ankle deep in a container of small branches, seeds and crimson juice. "That's how wines were historically produced, but commercial producers add preservatives to eliminate the wild yeast and subsequently add a lab-grown culture."

Difficult Conditions and Creative Solutions

In the immediate vicinity active senior another cultivator, who inspired his neighbor to establish her grapevines, has gathered his companions to pick Chardonnay grapes from one hundred vines he has laid out neatly across two terraces. The former teacher, a northern English physical education instructor who worked at Bristol University developed a passion for viticulture on regular visits to Europe. However it is a difficult task to grow Chardonnay grapes in the humidity of the gorge, with cooling tides moving through from the Bristol Channel. "I aimed to make French-style vintages in this location, which is somewhat ambitious," says Reeve with a smile. "This variety is slow-maturing and very sensitive to fungal infections."

"My goal was creating European-style vintages here, which is rather ambitious"

The temperamental local weather is not the only problem faced by winegrowers. Reeve has had to erect a fence on

Jennifer Woods
Jennifer Woods

An avid hiker and environmental writer sharing insights from global trails and sustainable living practices.

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